The Museo Nacional de Cerámica y Artes Suntuarias González Martí occupies one of the most theatrically decorated buildings in Spain: the Palacio del Marqués de Dos Aguas, a 15th-century Gothic noble residence that was radically transformed between 1740 and 1744 under the direction of painter Hipólito Rovira Meavilla. The result is an alabaster portal of almost hallucinatory complexity — two colossal river gods flank the Virgin Mary above a swirling mass of foliage, animals, and human figures, all carved in white alabaster against a deep ochre façade. Art historians consistently rank it among the most extreme expressions of the Spanish Churrigueresque Baroque style, and it remains the single most photographed façade in Valencia's historic centre.
The museum owes its existence to the antiquarian and collector Manuel González Martí, who spent decades assembling more than 1,500 ceramic pieces documenting the full arc of Valencian production. He donated the collection to the Spanish state in 1947, and the palace was formally inaugurated as a national museum in 1954. Today the holdings have expanded to encompass more than 5,000 years of ceramic history — from Neolithic and Iberian wares through Roman terra sigillata, medieval Hispano-Moresque lustre-ware from Manises (the village near Valencia that supplied the papal court in Avignon in the 14th century), and the celebrated 18th-century Alcora manufactory pieces, up to 20th-century studio ceramics. The collection also includes an outstanding decorative arts section with historical carriages, furniture, textiles, and paintings that originally furnished the palace's state rooms.
Inside, the palace itself competes for attention with the exhibits. The Rococo salons on the piano nobile retain their original polychrome stucco ceilings and silk wall hangings, while the Duchess's bedroom displays a complete 19th-century interior with original furnishings. A dedicated room showcases the finest Valencian azulejo tile panels, including floor-to-ceiling kitchen and dining room installations that illustrate how deeply ceramic craft was woven into daily aristocratic life. The sequence of rooms tracing Manises lustre-ware — with its distinctive metallic gold and cobalt-blue decoration that made Valencian ceramics the most prized in 15th-century Europe — is particularly remarkable for its depth and scholarly labelling.
The museum is located on Calle Poeta Querol in the heart of Valencia's old city, a five-minute walk from the Cathedral and Plaza de la Reina. Entry is free for EU citizens and residents; a small fee applies to other visitors. The museum is closed on Mondays. Plan at least 90 minutes to do justice to both the collection and the palace architecture — and do not skip the exterior: the alabaster portal is best photographed in the soft morning light before the tour groups arrive.
